Microwave techniques

That bag of popcorn is just the beginning. First sold in 1947, the microwave oven wasn’t a common household item until the late 1960’s. Along with the fridge, conventional oven, blender, and coffeemaker, it is now considered an essential appliance in the American kitchen. But while we all use it to warm up coffee and pop our corn, this countertop contraption remains poorly understood and often underestimated. Microwaves don’t cook food from the inside out—a common myth—and despite the term “nuke,” it’s not nuclear radiation that’s reheating last night’s burrito. What’s more, microwaves can outperform conventional techniques when it comes to vegetables, quick soups, and fried snacks. Put aside the Pop Secret—it’s time to take a deeper look at the humble microwave.

Hot Pocket:
The Microwave’s Humble Beginnings

For the microwave’s invention, thank Percy Spencer’s sweet tooth. The Raytheon engineer was lingering in front of an active microwave radar set when the Mr. Goodbar in his pocket began to melt. Ingredients used in Spencer’s early food-heating experiments include popcorn kernels and an egg (which exploded in a colleague’s face).

The first microwave oven weighed in at 750 pounds, and was five feet, six inches tall. At first, it was only used in restaurants and other places where large quantities of food had to be prepared at once.

WHY IT WORKS

Essentially, microwaves cook food by producing electromagnetic waves that force polarized water molecules within it to oscillate. We experience this atomic-scale movement as increasing temperature. Imagine water molecules as antennae, interacting with the waves in the oven much like a radio antenna does with radio waves. The more water in the food, the more effective it is as an antenna. Plant foods have a high water content relative to most foods—making them very effective antennae indeed.

But it’s important, too, to consider the size of your antennae. In conventional ovens, small foods cook faster than larger ones. It tends to be the opposite with microwaves. A microwave (that is, the wave itself, not the oven) is 12.8 centimeters long. To receive the waves properly, food should be at least a quarter of that length—so about 3.2 centimeters (a little larger than one inch). Think about how an individual popcorn kernel can take minutes to pop. And yet, you can pop an entire bag of popcorn kernels in about 60 seconds. Grouped together, all the kernels form a target mass that can couple with the microwaves and absorb them, similar to how a radio antenna picks up radio waves. The lone kernels are so small (relative to the length of the microwaves) that they can’t easily absorb the waves’ energy, and thus take longer to cook.

From an engineering perspective, the microwave oven is a fairly simple machine, but for one complex and fascinating piece: the magnetron. (Watch this awesome video for more on how magnetrons work. )

See the diagram below to better understand how energy flows from the socket in your kitchen into the food itself.

Microwave Techniques

The All-Important Defrost Button

Ever try to defrost food in your microwave on the “cook” setting? You’ve likely wound up with food that’s partly cooked and partly frozen.

Here’s what happening: Because frozen water has a different atomic structure than liquid, ice is invisible to microwaves. Once part of the food melts, however, the liquid water will start to strongly absorb the waves, causing that portion to cook quickly while areas around it remain frozen. To even things out, the microwave’s defrost function works by turning the magnetron on and off, allowing the frozen parts of the food to “catch up” to the already-cooked parts, thereby encouraging more-even heating.

Is it safe? Is it healthy?

Yes, and yes. Contrary to popular myth, microwave radiation is not related to nuclear radiation whatsoever. As described above, microwave ovens use electromagnetic radiation that occurs at frequencies between 300 MHz and 300 GHz—the same kind of electromagnetic radiation (except at a different wavelength) as visible light and radio waves. It doesn’t make your food radioactive, not even a teensy little bit. And it doesn’t have anything to do with radioactivity or nuclear reactors.

Another popular myth says that microwave ovens destroy all the nutrients in the food. In fact, it’s the opposite—microwaving often preserves more nutrients than other cooking methods. The longer and hotter you cook something, the more nutrients you lose, and with boiling and pressure-cooking, you can lose additional nutrients to surrounding water as well. Microwaves work by exciting the water molecules in your food, which then heat up and cook the surrounding material very quickly, protecting the food from the damage that can be done by time, heat, and cooking water.

MICROWAVING VEGETABLES

When cooking vegetables, it’s of paramount importance to preserve their fresh aromas and vivid colors. The best way to do that is to cook them rapidly. That’s where the microwave comes in: You can cook vegetables perfectly in a microwave, in just a few minutes. How many minutes exactly? That depends on the wattage of your machine, along with the amount and size of the food you are cooking. Through trial and error, we found that in our 1,000-watt microwave, we got the best results by cooking one-inch pieces for 30–45 seconds. Experimenting with your microwave will help determine your own optimal cook times and settings.

This simple technique opens up myriad possibilities for delicious vegetable dishes with a much lower risk of failure. No more limp, weepy asparagus or soft, watery carrots. When you prepare vegetables in the microwave, you can focus on the rest of the dish, instead of just the vegetables themselves.

Microwaving Vegetables

We all know the danger of overcooking vegetables—nothing’s less appealing than soggy spears of broccoli, except maybe a pile of shriveled up green beans. The beauty of the microwave is that it offers a fast, fool-proof way to get your vegetables just right every time.

Essentially, microwaves cook food by producing electromagnetic waves that force polarized water molecules within it to oscillate. We experience this atomic-scale movement as increasing temperature. Think of the water molecules as antennae, interacting with the waves in the oven much like a radio antenna does with radio waves. The more water in the food, the more effective it is as an antenna. Plant foods have a high water content relative to most foods—making them very effective antennae indeed. But it’s important, too, to consider the size of your antennae. A microwave is 12.8 centimeters long. To couple readily with the waves, individual pieces should be at least a quarter of that length—so about 3.2 centimeters (a little larger than one inch). A microwave will of course cook smaller bits, it will just do so less efficiently and effectively.

What’s all this got to do with you and your Brussels sprouts? It basically means you can cook them—plus virtually any other vegetable—perfectly, in just a few minutes. How many minutes exactly depends on the wattage of your machine, along with the amount (and size) of food you are cooking. Through trial and error, we found we got the best results by cooking one-inch pieces of vegetables in our 1,000-watt microwave for 30–45 seconds. Experimenting with your microwave will help determine your own optimal cook times and settings.

Ready to try the technique in a finished dish? Make our version ofBagna Càuda Vegetables, a modernist spin on a classic Piedmontese appetizer.

SEE THE RECIPE

Bagna Càuda Vegetables

Hailing from the Piedmont in Northern Italy, bagna càuda is a dip traditionally made from olive oil, butter, garlic, and anchovies and served with raw vegetables as an appetizer.

Here, we top cooked vegetables with our own Bagna Càuda Foamand sprinkle pumpernickel bread crumbs on top for crunch. Light yet packed with flavor, it’s a fun spin on a classic Italian dish.

SEE THE RECIPE

Microwaved Radicchio Salad

Can a salad be seductive? It can when it’s a warm salad, made with jewel-toned radicchio—gently wilted, still a little crunchy—dressed with rich buttermilk, verdant chive oil, and funky blue cheese. We heat the radicchio in the microwave to achieve that perfect in-between texture; toasted hazelnuts bring deep, nutty flavor and more satisfying crunch.

For an extra-sexy starter, freeze the cheese in advance, then shave curls of it over the salad just before serving. Fresh oysters? Forget about it. This is the dish to get things going.

SEE THE RECIPE

Asparagus with Ham and Egg

With its mild earthiness and great texture (provided it’s cooked properly), asparagus is one of spring’s most-anticipated foods. It starts showing up on restaurant menus in March and April, often served with a poached egg or an eggy sauce like Hollandaise.

Thanks to its high water content, asparagus is a great candidate for microwaves—just be careful not to overdo it. In our 1,000-watt machine, a single serving cooks perfectly in just 30 seconds. Once they’re ready, we chop the spears, then top them with a 75 °C Egg—a sous vide technique that takes the guesswork out of poaching—andCrispy Prosciutto. We love the way the runny egg coats the tender asparagus, while the ham lends crunch and saltiness. At once simple, satisfying, and sophisticated, it’s the perfect dish for a spring brunch or the first course of an al-fresco dinner party.

SEE THE RECIPE

MICROWAVED SOUPS

From elegant amuses bouches to quintessential comfort dishes, puréed soups are an important component of every cook’s repertoire. What with all the simmering and stirring, however, they can be pretty time-consuming. Because microwaves cook vegetables so quickly—preserving flavor and aroma so well—you can use them to whip up excellent soups far faster than traditional cooking methods allow. Here are two recipes to get you going.

Microwaved Pea Soup

During their all-too-short season, green peas are a chef favorite for chilled soups. Brightened with a fresh herb like tarragon or mint, they deliver a hit of clean, green flavor that feels emblematic of everything we all love about spring.

For a shot of spring in the dark days of winter, frozen peas come in handy. We microwave them along with shaved onion and garlic, then blend with fresh tarragon leaves to create a fine purée. (You can sub in fresh or thawed frozen peas too, though keep in mind that cook time will vary). Once the soup has chilled, we garnish with fresh ricotta and lemon zest, plus a drizzle of truffle oil. It tastes great, looks lovely, and involves just 20 minutes of work—three qualities you’ll welcome any time of year.

SEE THE RECIPE

Microwaved Tomato Soup

Tomato soup is all about comfort. Sick days, snow days—what would they be without a big bowl of it accompanied by a gooey grilled cheese? And like its melty best bud, tomato soup is the sort of dish you want to whip up in a matter of minutes. Fussy recipes need not apply.

With that in mind, we came up with this easy version that doubles as a great way to make use of those ripe tomatoes you’ve got lying around. It’s creamier than your typical store-bought fare, thanks to the addition of tomato paste and xanthan gum. Before serving, top with warm cream and our Chive Oil for a richer, smoother soup.

SEE THE RECIPE

OTHER IDEAS

Looking for more cool stuff to do with that countertop oven? Check out our method for microwaved vegetables confits. Super-simple and mess free, they’ll enhance all sorts of preparations and, as in the case of our Confit Squash Salad, can form the basis of a pretty killer dish as well. Ham fans, meanwhile, will love the way we harness the microwave’s dehydrating abilities to transform silky prosciutto into a crunchy garnish.

Microwaved Vegetable Confit

Quick word association: When you hear “confit,” what’s the first thing that comes to mind? If you said “duck,” you’re not alone—duck leg, salt-cured and slowly cooked in its own fat, is the most common form of confit we encounter in restaurants these days.

Confit is also a great way to make the most of flavor-enhancing alliums such as garlic and cipollini onions. We like to place them in canning jars, cover with a fat such as olive oil, then microwave on low until they take on a tender texture. Use them to flavor soups and salad dressings, spread them over crostini, or mix them into dips.

This technique works for just about any firm, starchy, or sugary vegetable—try potatoes, parsnips, turnips, onion, garlic, squash, carrots, or radish. It won’t work well with fresh green vegetables, and although we love tomato confit, we found that the tomato falls apart when cooked in the microwave. Keep in mind that some vegetables may take longer to cook if you are trying to caramelize them (as with garlic or onions).

For a quick vegetarian dish, try ourMicrowaved Squash Confit, dressed with hazelnut crumble and ricotta salata.

TELL ME MORE

Confit Squash Salad

Don’t get us wrong. Grandma’s baked butternut squash—doused in butter, sprinkled with brown sugar—is great. But there are all sorts of winter squashes on offer at the market these days, and no end to the fun things you can do with them. Among our favorites: kabocha, a generic term for several Japanese varieties characterized by their turban shape and sweet, rich yellow flesh. Best of all, kabocha’s deep green skin softens nicely as it cooks, meaning you can often skip the pesky peeling step.

Here, we rest the kabocha in salt and sugar, then confit it in clarified butter to create an almost fudgelike texture. Smooth, but not too smooth, the squash should push back a little as you bite into it. We give it a hit of lemon juice for brightness, and garnish with toasted hazelnuts, chives, and a flurry of ricotta salata before serving. Feel free to sub in other squashes such as butternut (you know, if Grandma’s coming over), but in that case you’ll need to peel the skin off before you cook.

Got leftover hazelnuts? You can always use them in our sexyMicrowaved Radicchio Salad.

SEE THE RECIPE

Crispy Prosciutto

Delicate, yet full of deep pork flavor, prosciutto is one of the world’s best-loved foods. Wrapped around melon or dates, spread atop a pizza, or mixed into a quiche, the dry-cured ham delivers a hit of salty sophistication to any dish. We love crisping up a few slices in the microwave then using them as a garnish for our Asparagus, Egg, and Ham dish.

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LEARN MORE

Click the image below to enlarge, download, and print our Microwave poster, chock-full of weird and wonderful information about your mysterious countertop contraption.

http://www.chefsteps.com/activities/microwave-techniques#/

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